Get matched with top tile: ceramic and porcelain installers in your area

Both materials work well, so start by thinking about foot traffic and budget. Porcelain is denser and absorbs less water, so it’s ideal for busy entries, kitchens, and baths—even if it costs a little more. 

Ceramic is lighter, easier to cut, and comes in a wider range of styles, making it a solid pick for walls or light-use floors. Match the tile’s durability rating to the space, and you’ll get the best balance of looks, performance, and price.

A solid subfloor starts with a flat, crack-free surface. Your installer will level any low spots, reinforce weak areas, and screw down fiber-cement backer board or quality plywood before setting tile. 

Skipping this step invites movement, cracked grout, and even water damage—issues that are far pricier than prep work. Hire a pro to get the base right, and your new tile will look sharp and stay put for years.

Give the thin-set 24 to 48 hours to cure before you start grouting. Rushing the process can nudge tiles out of place, weaken the bond, and create cracks you’ll have to fix later. Keep foot traffic off the area until you’re ready to grout, and you’ll lock in a strong, even finish that lasts.

Tile size changes the workload. Large-format pieces mean fewer grout lines and faster coverage, but they’re heavier and need careful handling to avoid breakage and lippage. Small mosaics create intricate looks yet take more time to set and space correctly, so labor costs climb. Weigh your style goals against the extra effort (and budget) each option requires before you decide.

You can leave tiles ungrouted for a short window, but only if the surface stays clean and undisturbed. Once the thin-set cures, finish the job as soon as possible. Grout seals joints against moisture and locks the layout in place; waiting too long invites dirt, water, and movement that can shorten the life of your new surface.

Use at least two millimeter spacers on walls and three millimeter spacers on floors to give grout room to bond and absorb normal expansion. Larger, rustic tiles may call for wider joints, while precision-cut porcelain often looks best with tighter gaps. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines and local code, and you’ll end up with an even, long-lasting layout.